There is no jewellery design competition that better exemplifies the artistic nature of jewellery design than the Spectrum Awards.
Launched in 1984 by the American Gem Trade Association, the awards honour, recognize and promote designers whose work uses natural coloured gemstones and cultured pearls in finished fine jewelry design. All of the jewellery designers in the competition used coloured gemstones and cultured pearls in their work. It is considered by many to be the most respected and prestigious creative award for the jewellery design industry. The judging panel changes each year and consists of experts from different disciplines within the jewellery industry. Each piece is examined by hand with an eye for craftsmanship and quality of the materials used.
There were literally hundreds of entries from some of the top jewellery designers practicing today. I had the chance to view them all during a press viewing in Manhattan. The only discernable trends are imagination, innovation, creativity, artistry and top-level craftsmanship. There was extravagance and simplicity. Above all, there was quality. There is no place on earth where you will see such a vast collection of exceptional fine jewellery in one room.
The piece that received Best of Show certainly defied all trends. It was a locket made of palladium and 22k gold studded with blue Moonstones, gray diamonds (24.51ctw.) blue sapphires (17.34 ctw.) and white diamonds. The locket opens to reveal a 76.03 ct.
Moldavite Buddha. The piece was made by Todd Reed, the Boulder, Colo.-based designer who is well known for creating jewellery with uncut and raw diamonds and high-carat recycled gold and precious metals. Lately, he has been working with palladium and his winning design is an example of his work with this precious metal.
The winner for Best Use of Color was a sparkling set of platinum earrings by Deirdre Featherstone, that feature removable Opal enhancers (15.64 ctw.) accented with blue zircons (3.27 ctw.), tanzanites (3.53 ctw.), paraiba tourmalines (.40 ctw.) and diamonds (5.79 ctw.).
Some of the other overall winners were a bit more tame, but showed unwavering craftsmanship and creative uses of coloured gemstones and pearls. For example, winning the Best Use of Platinum and Color was Michael Endlich of Pave Fine Jewellery, for a platinum ring featuring a 19.05 ct. cushion-cut aquamarine centre stone surrounded by pave-set diamonds (0.41 ctw.). The ring showcased simple eloquent use of materials and superior craftsmanship.
Best Use of Palladium and Color went to Dennis de Jonghe, with a crooked necklace made of palladium pendant featuring a beautifully sculpted 16.39 ct. aquamarine accented with a 2.09 ct. Moonstone, diamonds (.26 ctw.) and pearls. At first glance it looked a bit conservative but the use of materials and the way they were put together made the piece exciting.
The best jewellery designs defy trends and often set trends. The Spectrum Awards provides a place for designers to do their best work.
